How to get torque on frozen lug nuts on trailer?











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I have an old trailer that needs a tire replaced. I've looked at all the answers on how to unstick lug nuts, but they all assume that the wheel can be locked so when you apply torque to the lug nut the wheel doesn't spin. How can I lock the wheels on a trailer so they don't spin?










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  • Are there any holes in the wheels? Stick a crowbar through one and wedge it against the underside of the flatbed (or any structural element under the trailer).
    – J...
    12 hours ago










  • @J... made the same comment 20 odd minutes prior... see below...
    – Solar Mike
    12 hours ago








  • 1




    You say "old" trailer. Any chance that you have left-hand threads on that side of the trailer?
    – DJohnM
    8 hours ago















up vote
4
down vote

favorite












I have an old trailer that needs a tire replaced. I've looked at all the answers on how to unstick lug nuts, but they all assume that the wheel can be locked so when you apply torque to the lug nut the wheel doesn't spin. How can I lock the wheels on a trailer so they don't spin?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Jeff Waite is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Are there any holes in the wheels? Stick a crowbar through one and wedge it against the underside of the flatbed (or any structural element under the trailer).
    – J...
    12 hours ago










  • @J... made the same comment 20 odd minutes prior... see below...
    – Solar Mike
    12 hours ago








  • 1




    You say "old" trailer. Any chance that you have left-hand threads on that side of the trailer?
    – DJohnM
    8 hours ago













up vote
4
down vote

favorite









up vote
4
down vote

favorite











I have an old trailer that needs a tire replaced. I've looked at all the answers on how to unstick lug nuts, but they all assume that the wheel can be locked so when you apply torque to the lug nut the wheel doesn't spin. How can I lock the wheels on a trailer so they don't spin?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Jeff Waite is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I have an old trailer that needs a tire replaced. I've looked at all the answers on how to unstick lug nuts, but they all assume that the wheel can be locked so when you apply torque to the lug nut the wheel doesn't spin. How can I lock the wheels on a trailer so they don't spin?







trailer lug-nut






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edited 8 hours ago









George

3,5001657108




3,5001657108






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asked 16 hours ago









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211




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Check out our Code of Conduct.












  • Are there any holes in the wheels? Stick a crowbar through one and wedge it against the underside of the flatbed (or any structural element under the trailer).
    – J...
    12 hours ago










  • @J... made the same comment 20 odd minutes prior... see below...
    – Solar Mike
    12 hours ago








  • 1




    You say "old" trailer. Any chance that you have left-hand threads on that side of the trailer?
    – DJohnM
    8 hours ago


















  • Are there any holes in the wheels? Stick a crowbar through one and wedge it against the underside of the flatbed (or any structural element under the trailer).
    – J...
    12 hours ago










  • @J... made the same comment 20 odd minutes prior... see below...
    – Solar Mike
    12 hours ago








  • 1




    You say "old" trailer. Any chance that you have left-hand threads on that side of the trailer?
    – DJohnM
    8 hours ago
















Are there any holes in the wheels? Stick a crowbar through one and wedge it against the underside of the flatbed (or any structural element under the trailer).
– J...
12 hours ago




Are there any holes in the wheels? Stick a crowbar through one and wedge it against the underside of the flatbed (or any structural element under the trailer).
– J...
12 hours ago












@J... made the same comment 20 odd minutes prior... see below...
– Solar Mike
12 hours ago






@J... made the same comment 20 odd minutes prior... see below...
– Solar Mike
12 hours ago






1




1




You say "old" trailer. Any chance that you have left-hand threads on that side of the trailer?
– DJohnM
8 hours ago




You say "old" trailer. Any chance that you have left-hand threads on that side of the trailer?
– DJohnM
8 hours ago










6 Answers
6






active

oldest

votes

















up vote
7
down vote













The really simple option is to loosen the nuts while the wheel is resting on the ground, and only raise it up on the jack once they are loose (not removed, just loose)



Otherwise, if you don't have brakes you will need to look at wedging the wheel or axle somehow. You can use a strap, or wooden wedges, or as @SolarMike suggested, if the wheel has holes in it, a pry-bar through the hole and wedged under the trailer will work.



But option 1 is really the easiest way - it works using gravity, there are no straps to slip, and you reduce your chance of injury. If the wheel still slips, add weight to the trailer or attach it to a vehicle with the brakes on, or ensure the trailer is on a non-slip surface (eg dry, textured concrete)






share|improve this answer



















  • 1




    The weight of the trailer is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place when torque is applied. It just spins on the ground.
    – Jeff Waite
    16 hours ago










  • @JeffWaite - updated for you :-)
    – Rory Alsop
    15 hours ago






  • 1




    Connect the trailer to a vehicle, now the gravity method should work.
    – Moab
    15 hours ago












  • Don't understand how hooking to a vehicle would help. The trailer still weights too little and when I torque the lug nuts the wheel would still spin on the ground.
    – Jeff Waite
    15 hours ago










  • So, when you torque the nuts, what direction are you turning your torque wrench? Pushing it downwards increases the traction on the ground
    – Rory Alsop
    15 hours ago


















up vote
3
down vote













Yes, loosen nuts while the wheel is on the ground but first dowse them all with some PB-Blaster or similar penetrant oil like WD40 and let it soak in for an hour or so. That should make them easier to come off and not spin the wheel.






share|improve this answer








New contributor




3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.


















  • They should be easy enough to find...
    – Solar Mike
    13 hours ago










  • The best penetrating fluid I've ever used is a mixture of 50/50 ATF/acetone.
    – Jesse_b
    10 hours ago










  • WD-40 is not penetrating oil.
    – Harper
    8 hours ago


















up vote
3
down vote













As a last method: Heat the nut up with a torch and should work to free the bolt. Replace studs while hot if you have to twist off the bolt because its that stuck. I'd replace the bolt and nut anyways.



For getting the torque on the bolt you'll have to sit it on a wood block and put a load on the trailer if it isn't heavy enough.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1




    Use the force!!
    – Solar Mike
    8 hours ago


















up vote
2
down vote













Do you have a long solid tiedown strap? Wrap the strap around the rolling tread of the tyre and hook it to a secure piece of the chassis.



If there's nowhere accessible, hook up a tow vehicle and lay the strap under its rear wheel.



This should prevent the wheel from rotating when you apply torque via a wheel brace or cheater-bar.



Once your tyre is replaced, make sure you clean the studs and nuts, and use grease or assembly compound on the threads to stop this happening again. It would be practical to clean the studs on the other side too before they seize. Remember the spare wheel's mount as well.






share|improve this answer

















  • 1




    I was thinking the same thing. You type faster. :-) Consider how a strap wrench works, and apply the tie down strap the same way. From another comment it seems the tire has been removed and OP is now working with a bare wheel. Maybe some thin rubber or sandpaper could improve the grip of the strap to the metal wheel.
    – Greg Hill
    12 hours ago












  • The OP said the tire came off 3 hours ago...
    – Solar Mike
    12 hours ago










  • @SolarMike Excellent news. Hope it helps the next people who are stuck with a similar problem.
    – Criggie
    56 mins ago


















up vote
1
down vote













If its stuck that bad, it may be somewhat fused through corrosion. Over torquing is likely at some point to break the lug and nut off all together. When that happens it will be fast, and may throw you off balance.



I'd use a dremmel or similar device with a small diameter cut off wheel and put a slice on one or two sides of the nut, going along the long axis of the lug. Try not to cut into the lug at all, but enough so that you can break the nut of without damaging the lug.



Then it may be possible to get enough corrosion off the lug to apply a new nut.



If you are feeling cowboy and don't care about breaking the lugs off the wheel, you could try getting two lug wrenches and breaker bars like 1 inch steel pipe to give you greater leverage. Have your monkey hold one lug wrench torquing in the clockwise direction, while you do the other way on the offending nut. Non-negligible possibility for injury!






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    up vote
    0
    down vote













    I use the wheel's momentum as an impact wrench.



    I wirebrush it and hit it with Kroil, maybe a little heat and some more Kroil. Then score a line on stud and nut so you can see when it's starting to move.



    If you are careless, this technique can injure you. I use a long breaker bar with big (1/2-3/4) socket size with an impact socket. I jack and thoroughly jackstand the wheel barely off the ground. I fit the breaker bar/socket on one nut, so the handle aims straight away from the wheel hub*. I also get safety glasses and a face shield.



    I note the arc of travel the wheel/bar can travel without the handle hitting the ground. It should be no more than 270 degrees or so, or the handle is too short or the wheel too high. If the surface is soft or I care about it, I put a 2x12, wood crib, or old phonebook where the handle will hit on the right. Ready?



    I rotate wheel/bar to the right briskly. WAP! The breaker bar hits the ground and stops instantly. The wheel has mass, and does not want to stop. It wouldn't if the nut were loose. So a great deal of force exerts upon the nut, socket and bar.



    I am crazy, not stupid; so I do this exercise several times, starting at zero force to learn where to safely put my hands, body and face and keep the tool on. Increase force slowly until the witness mark starts to move. Expect tool breakage, though I've never broken a tool or failed to get a wheel off. I am careful and use top shelf tools. If you are careless, this technique can injure you.



    Then I use Kroil to run the nut off and back on, to hold the wheel so if the last stud breaks, I don't get a wheel in my lap.





    * Interesting science question, if I go the other way and have the handle cross over the hub, does that increase effective torque or decrease it? Probably a wash, but my way gives longer reach.






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      6 Answers
      6






      active

      oldest

      votes








      6 Answers
      6






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes








      up vote
      7
      down vote













      The really simple option is to loosen the nuts while the wheel is resting on the ground, and only raise it up on the jack once they are loose (not removed, just loose)



      Otherwise, if you don't have brakes you will need to look at wedging the wheel or axle somehow. You can use a strap, or wooden wedges, or as @SolarMike suggested, if the wheel has holes in it, a pry-bar through the hole and wedged under the trailer will work.



      But option 1 is really the easiest way - it works using gravity, there are no straps to slip, and you reduce your chance of injury. If the wheel still slips, add weight to the trailer or attach it to a vehicle with the brakes on, or ensure the trailer is on a non-slip surface (eg dry, textured concrete)






      share|improve this answer



















      • 1




        The weight of the trailer is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place when torque is applied. It just spins on the ground.
        – Jeff Waite
        16 hours ago










      • @JeffWaite - updated for you :-)
        – Rory Alsop
        15 hours ago






      • 1




        Connect the trailer to a vehicle, now the gravity method should work.
        – Moab
        15 hours ago












      • Don't understand how hooking to a vehicle would help. The trailer still weights too little and when I torque the lug nuts the wheel would still spin on the ground.
        – Jeff Waite
        15 hours ago










      • So, when you torque the nuts, what direction are you turning your torque wrench? Pushing it downwards increases the traction on the ground
        – Rory Alsop
        15 hours ago















      up vote
      7
      down vote













      The really simple option is to loosen the nuts while the wheel is resting on the ground, and only raise it up on the jack once they are loose (not removed, just loose)



      Otherwise, if you don't have brakes you will need to look at wedging the wheel or axle somehow. You can use a strap, or wooden wedges, or as @SolarMike suggested, if the wheel has holes in it, a pry-bar through the hole and wedged under the trailer will work.



      But option 1 is really the easiest way - it works using gravity, there are no straps to slip, and you reduce your chance of injury. If the wheel still slips, add weight to the trailer or attach it to a vehicle with the brakes on, or ensure the trailer is on a non-slip surface (eg dry, textured concrete)






      share|improve this answer



















      • 1




        The weight of the trailer is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place when torque is applied. It just spins on the ground.
        – Jeff Waite
        16 hours ago










      • @JeffWaite - updated for you :-)
        – Rory Alsop
        15 hours ago






      • 1




        Connect the trailer to a vehicle, now the gravity method should work.
        – Moab
        15 hours ago












      • Don't understand how hooking to a vehicle would help. The trailer still weights too little and when I torque the lug nuts the wheel would still spin on the ground.
        – Jeff Waite
        15 hours ago










      • So, when you torque the nuts, what direction are you turning your torque wrench? Pushing it downwards increases the traction on the ground
        – Rory Alsop
        15 hours ago













      up vote
      7
      down vote










      up vote
      7
      down vote









      The really simple option is to loosen the nuts while the wheel is resting on the ground, and only raise it up on the jack once they are loose (not removed, just loose)



      Otherwise, if you don't have brakes you will need to look at wedging the wheel or axle somehow. You can use a strap, or wooden wedges, or as @SolarMike suggested, if the wheel has holes in it, a pry-bar through the hole and wedged under the trailer will work.



      But option 1 is really the easiest way - it works using gravity, there are no straps to slip, and you reduce your chance of injury. If the wheel still slips, add weight to the trailer or attach it to a vehicle with the brakes on, or ensure the trailer is on a non-slip surface (eg dry, textured concrete)






      share|improve this answer














      The really simple option is to loosen the nuts while the wheel is resting on the ground, and only raise it up on the jack once they are loose (not removed, just loose)



      Otherwise, if you don't have brakes you will need to look at wedging the wheel or axle somehow. You can use a strap, or wooden wedges, or as @SolarMike suggested, if the wheel has holes in it, a pry-bar through the hole and wedged under the trailer will work.



      But option 1 is really the easiest way - it works using gravity, there are no straps to slip, and you reduce your chance of injury. If the wheel still slips, add weight to the trailer or attach it to a vehicle with the brakes on, or ensure the trailer is on a non-slip surface (eg dry, textured concrete)







      share|improve this answer














      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited 12 hours ago

























      answered 16 hours ago









      Rory Alsop

      17.4k44890




      17.4k44890








      • 1




        The weight of the trailer is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place when torque is applied. It just spins on the ground.
        – Jeff Waite
        16 hours ago










      • @JeffWaite - updated for you :-)
        – Rory Alsop
        15 hours ago






      • 1




        Connect the trailer to a vehicle, now the gravity method should work.
        – Moab
        15 hours ago












      • Don't understand how hooking to a vehicle would help. The trailer still weights too little and when I torque the lug nuts the wheel would still spin on the ground.
        – Jeff Waite
        15 hours ago










      • So, when you torque the nuts, what direction are you turning your torque wrench? Pushing it downwards increases the traction on the ground
        – Rory Alsop
        15 hours ago














      • 1




        The weight of the trailer is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place when torque is applied. It just spins on the ground.
        – Jeff Waite
        16 hours ago










      • @JeffWaite - updated for you :-)
        – Rory Alsop
        15 hours ago






      • 1




        Connect the trailer to a vehicle, now the gravity method should work.
        – Moab
        15 hours ago












      • Don't understand how hooking to a vehicle would help. The trailer still weights too little and when I torque the lug nuts the wheel would still spin on the ground.
        – Jeff Waite
        15 hours ago










      • So, when you torque the nuts, what direction are you turning your torque wrench? Pushing it downwards increases the traction on the ground
        – Rory Alsop
        15 hours ago








      1




      1




      The weight of the trailer is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place when torque is applied. It just spins on the ground.
      – Jeff Waite
      16 hours ago




      The weight of the trailer is not sufficient to hold the wheel in place when torque is applied. It just spins on the ground.
      – Jeff Waite
      16 hours ago












      @JeffWaite - updated for you :-)
      – Rory Alsop
      15 hours ago




      @JeffWaite - updated for you :-)
      – Rory Alsop
      15 hours ago




      1




      1




      Connect the trailer to a vehicle, now the gravity method should work.
      – Moab
      15 hours ago






      Connect the trailer to a vehicle, now the gravity method should work.
      – Moab
      15 hours ago














      Don't understand how hooking to a vehicle would help. The trailer still weights too little and when I torque the lug nuts the wheel would still spin on the ground.
      – Jeff Waite
      15 hours ago




      Don't understand how hooking to a vehicle would help. The trailer still weights too little and when I torque the lug nuts the wheel would still spin on the ground.
      – Jeff Waite
      15 hours ago












      So, when you torque the nuts, what direction are you turning your torque wrench? Pushing it downwards increases the traction on the ground
      – Rory Alsop
      15 hours ago




      So, when you torque the nuts, what direction are you turning your torque wrench? Pushing it downwards increases the traction on the ground
      – Rory Alsop
      15 hours ago










      up vote
      3
      down vote













      Yes, loosen nuts while the wheel is on the ground but first dowse them all with some PB-Blaster or similar penetrant oil like WD40 and let it soak in for an hour or so. That should make them easier to come off and not spin the wheel.






      share|improve this answer








      New contributor




      3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.


















      • They should be easy enough to find...
        – Solar Mike
        13 hours ago










      • The best penetrating fluid I've ever used is a mixture of 50/50 ATF/acetone.
        – Jesse_b
        10 hours ago










      • WD-40 is not penetrating oil.
        – Harper
        8 hours ago















      up vote
      3
      down vote













      Yes, loosen nuts while the wheel is on the ground but first dowse them all with some PB-Blaster or similar penetrant oil like WD40 and let it soak in for an hour or so. That should make them easier to come off and not spin the wheel.






      share|improve this answer








      New contributor




      3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.


















      • They should be easy enough to find...
        – Solar Mike
        13 hours ago










      • The best penetrating fluid I've ever used is a mixture of 50/50 ATF/acetone.
        – Jesse_b
        10 hours ago










      • WD-40 is not penetrating oil.
        – Harper
        8 hours ago













      up vote
      3
      down vote










      up vote
      3
      down vote









      Yes, loosen nuts while the wheel is on the ground but first dowse them all with some PB-Blaster or similar penetrant oil like WD40 and let it soak in for an hour or so. That should make them easier to come off and not spin the wheel.






      share|improve this answer








      New contributor




      3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.









      Yes, loosen nuts while the wheel is on the ground but first dowse them all with some PB-Blaster or similar penetrant oil like WD40 and let it soak in for an hour or so. That should make them easier to come off and not spin the wheel.







      share|improve this answer








      New contributor




      3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.









      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer






      New contributor




      3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.









      answered 15 hours ago









      3dalliance

      1415




      1415




      New contributor




      3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.





      New contributor





      3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.






      3dalliance is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.












      • They should be easy enough to find...
        – Solar Mike
        13 hours ago










      • The best penetrating fluid I've ever used is a mixture of 50/50 ATF/acetone.
        – Jesse_b
        10 hours ago










      • WD-40 is not penetrating oil.
        – Harper
        8 hours ago


















      • They should be easy enough to find...
        – Solar Mike
        13 hours ago










      • The best penetrating fluid I've ever used is a mixture of 50/50 ATF/acetone.
        – Jesse_b
        10 hours ago










      • WD-40 is not penetrating oil.
        – Harper
        8 hours ago
















      They should be easy enough to find...
      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago




      They should be easy enough to find...
      – Solar Mike
      13 hours ago












      The best penetrating fluid I've ever used is a mixture of 50/50 ATF/acetone.
      – Jesse_b
      10 hours ago




      The best penetrating fluid I've ever used is a mixture of 50/50 ATF/acetone.
      – Jesse_b
      10 hours ago












      WD-40 is not penetrating oil.
      – Harper
      8 hours ago




      WD-40 is not penetrating oil.
      – Harper
      8 hours ago










      up vote
      3
      down vote













      As a last method: Heat the nut up with a torch and should work to free the bolt. Replace studs while hot if you have to twist off the bolt because its that stuck. I'd replace the bolt and nut anyways.



      For getting the torque on the bolt you'll have to sit it on a wood block and put a load on the trailer if it isn't heavy enough.






      share|improve this answer



















      • 1




        Use the force!!
        – Solar Mike
        8 hours ago















      up vote
      3
      down vote













      As a last method: Heat the nut up with a torch and should work to free the bolt. Replace studs while hot if you have to twist off the bolt because its that stuck. I'd replace the bolt and nut anyways.



      For getting the torque on the bolt you'll have to sit it on a wood block and put a load on the trailer if it isn't heavy enough.






      share|improve this answer



















      • 1




        Use the force!!
        – Solar Mike
        8 hours ago













      up vote
      3
      down vote










      up vote
      3
      down vote









      As a last method: Heat the nut up with a torch and should work to free the bolt. Replace studs while hot if you have to twist off the bolt because its that stuck. I'd replace the bolt and nut anyways.



      For getting the torque on the bolt you'll have to sit it on a wood block and put a load on the trailer if it isn't heavy enough.






      share|improve this answer














      As a last method: Heat the nut up with a torch and should work to free the bolt. Replace studs while hot if you have to twist off the bolt because its that stuck. I'd replace the bolt and nut anyways.



      For getting the torque on the bolt you'll have to sit it on a wood block and put a load on the trailer if it isn't heavy enough.







      share|improve this answer














      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited 8 hours ago

























      answered 9 hours ago









      Muze

      233211




      233211








      • 1




        Use the force!!
        – Solar Mike
        8 hours ago














      • 1




        Use the force!!
        – Solar Mike
        8 hours ago








      1




      1




      Use the force!!
      – Solar Mike
      8 hours ago




      Use the force!!
      – Solar Mike
      8 hours ago










      up vote
      2
      down vote













      Do you have a long solid tiedown strap? Wrap the strap around the rolling tread of the tyre and hook it to a secure piece of the chassis.



      If there's nowhere accessible, hook up a tow vehicle and lay the strap under its rear wheel.



      This should prevent the wheel from rotating when you apply torque via a wheel brace or cheater-bar.



      Once your tyre is replaced, make sure you clean the studs and nuts, and use grease or assembly compound on the threads to stop this happening again. It would be practical to clean the studs on the other side too before they seize. Remember the spare wheel's mount as well.






      share|improve this answer

















      • 1




        I was thinking the same thing. You type faster. :-) Consider how a strap wrench works, and apply the tie down strap the same way. From another comment it seems the tire has been removed and OP is now working with a bare wheel. Maybe some thin rubber or sandpaper could improve the grip of the strap to the metal wheel.
        – Greg Hill
        12 hours ago












      • The OP said the tire came off 3 hours ago...
        – Solar Mike
        12 hours ago










      • @SolarMike Excellent news. Hope it helps the next people who are stuck with a similar problem.
        – Criggie
        56 mins ago















      up vote
      2
      down vote













      Do you have a long solid tiedown strap? Wrap the strap around the rolling tread of the tyre and hook it to a secure piece of the chassis.



      If there's nowhere accessible, hook up a tow vehicle and lay the strap under its rear wheel.



      This should prevent the wheel from rotating when you apply torque via a wheel brace or cheater-bar.



      Once your tyre is replaced, make sure you clean the studs and nuts, and use grease or assembly compound on the threads to stop this happening again. It would be practical to clean the studs on the other side too before they seize. Remember the spare wheel's mount as well.






      share|improve this answer

















      • 1




        I was thinking the same thing. You type faster. :-) Consider how a strap wrench works, and apply the tie down strap the same way. From another comment it seems the tire has been removed and OP is now working with a bare wheel. Maybe some thin rubber or sandpaper could improve the grip of the strap to the metal wheel.
        – Greg Hill
        12 hours ago












      • The OP said the tire came off 3 hours ago...
        – Solar Mike
        12 hours ago










      • @SolarMike Excellent news. Hope it helps the next people who are stuck with a similar problem.
        – Criggie
        56 mins ago













      up vote
      2
      down vote










      up vote
      2
      down vote









      Do you have a long solid tiedown strap? Wrap the strap around the rolling tread of the tyre and hook it to a secure piece of the chassis.



      If there's nowhere accessible, hook up a tow vehicle and lay the strap under its rear wheel.



      This should prevent the wheel from rotating when you apply torque via a wheel brace or cheater-bar.



      Once your tyre is replaced, make sure you clean the studs and nuts, and use grease or assembly compound on the threads to stop this happening again. It would be practical to clean the studs on the other side too before they seize. Remember the spare wheel's mount as well.






      share|improve this answer












      Do you have a long solid tiedown strap? Wrap the strap around the rolling tread of the tyre and hook it to a secure piece of the chassis.



      If there's nowhere accessible, hook up a tow vehicle and lay the strap under its rear wheel.



      This should prevent the wheel from rotating when you apply torque via a wheel brace or cheater-bar.



      Once your tyre is replaced, make sure you clean the studs and nuts, and use grease or assembly compound on the threads to stop this happening again. It would be practical to clean the studs on the other side too before they seize. Remember the spare wheel's mount as well.







      share|improve this answer












      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer










      answered 12 hours ago









      Criggie

      1,53311031




      1,53311031








      • 1




        I was thinking the same thing. You type faster. :-) Consider how a strap wrench works, and apply the tie down strap the same way. From another comment it seems the tire has been removed and OP is now working with a bare wheel. Maybe some thin rubber or sandpaper could improve the grip of the strap to the metal wheel.
        – Greg Hill
        12 hours ago












      • The OP said the tire came off 3 hours ago...
        – Solar Mike
        12 hours ago










      • @SolarMike Excellent news. Hope it helps the next people who are stuck with a similar problem.
        – Criggie
        56 mins ago














      • 1




        I was thinking the same thing. You type faster. :-) Consider how a strap wrench works, and apply the tie down strap the same way. From another comment it seems the tire has been removed and OP is now working with a bare wheel. Maybe some thin rubber or sandpaper could improve the grip of the strap to the metal wheel.
        – Greg Hill
        12 hours ago












      • The OP said the tire came off 3 hours ago...
        – Solar Mike
        12 hours ago










      • @SolarMike Excellent news. Hope it helps the next people who are stuck with a similar problem.
        – Criggie
        56 mins ago








      1




      1




      I was thinking the same thing. You type faster. :-) Consider how a strap wrench works, and apply the tie down strap the same way. From another comment it seems the tire has been removed and OP is now working with a bare wheel. Maybe some thin rubber or sandpaper could improve the grip of the strap to the metal wheel.
      – Greg Hill
      12 hours ago






      I was thinking the same thing. You type faster. :-) Consider how a strap wrench works, and apply the tie down strap the same way. From another comment it seems the tire has been removed and OP is now working with a bare wheel. Maybe some thin rubber or sandpaper could improve the grip of the strap to the metal wheel.
      – Greg Hill
      12 hours ago














      The OP said the tire came off 3 hours ago...
      – Solar Mike
      12 hours ago




      The OP said the tire came off 3 hours ago...
      – Solar Mike
      12 hours ago












      @SolarMike Excellent news. Hope it helps the next people who are stuck with a similar problem.
      – Criggie
      56 mins ago




      @SolarMike Excellent news. Hope it helps the next people who are stuck with a similar problem.
      – Criggie
      56 mins ago










      up vote
      1
      down vote













      If its stuck that bad, it may be somewhat fused through corrosion. Over torquing is likely at some point to break the lug and nut off all together. When that happens it will be fast, and may throw you off balance.



      I'd use a dremmel or similar device with a small diameter cut off wheel and put a slice on one or two sides of the nut, going along the long axis of the lug. Try not to cut into the lug at all, but enough so that you can break the nut of without damaging the lug.



      Then it may be possible to get enough corrosion off the lug to apply a new nut.



      If you are feeling cowboy and don't care about breaking the lugs off the wheel, you could try getting two lug wrenches and breaker bars like 1 inch steel pipe to give you greater leverage. Have your monkey hold one lug wrench torquing in the clockwise direction, while you do the other way on the offending nut. Non-negligible possibility for injury!






      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      RandomGuy is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.






















        up vote
        1
        down vote













        If its stuck that bad, it may be somewhat fused through corrosion. Over torquing is likely at some point to break the lug and nut off all together. When that happens it will be fast, and may throw you off balance.



        I'd use a dremmel or similar device with a small diameter cut off wheel and put a slice on one or two sides of the nut, going along the long axis of the lug. Try not to cut into the lug at all, but enough so that you can break the nut of without damaging the lug.



        Then it may be possible to get enough corrosion off the lug to apply a new nut.



        If you are feeling cowboy and don't care about breaking the lugs off the wheel, you could try getting two lug wrenches and breaker bars like 1 inch steel pipe to give you greater leverage. Have your monkey hold one lug wrench torquing in the clockwise direction, while you do the other way on the offending nut. Non-negligible possibility for injury!






        share|improve this answer










        New contributor




        RandomGuy is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
        Check out our Code of Conduct.




















          up vote
          1
          down vote










          up vote
          1
          down vote









          If its stuck that bad, it may be somewhat fused through corrosion. Over torquing is likely at some point to break the lug and nut off all together. When that happens it will be fast, and may throw you off balance.



          I'd use a dremmel or similar device with a small diameter cut off wheel and put a slice on one or two sides of the nut, going along the long axis of the lug. Try not to cut into the lug at all, but enough so that you can break the nut of without damaging the lug.



          Then it may be possible to get enough corrosion off the lug to apply a new nut.



          If you are feeling cowboy and don't care about breaking the lugs off the wheel, you could try getting two lug wrenches and breaker bars like 1 inch steel pipe to give you greater leverage. Have your monkey hold one lug wrench torquing in the clockwise direction, while you do the other way on the offending nut. Non-negligible possibility for injury!






          share|improve this answer










          New contributor




          RandomGuy is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.









          If its stuck that bad, it may be somewhat fused through corrosion. Over torquing is likely at some point to break the lug and nut off all together. When that happens it will be fast, and may throw you off balance.



          I'd use a dremmel or similar device with a small diameter cut off wheel and put a slice on one or two sides of the nut, going along the long axis of the lug. Try not to cut into the lug at all, but enough so that you can break the nut of without damaging the lug.



          Then it may be possible to get enough corrosion off the lug to apply a new nut.



          If you are feeling cowboy and don't care about breaking the lugs off the wheel, you could try getting two lug wrenches and breaker bars like 1 inch steel pipe to give you greater leverage. Have your monkey hold one lug wrench torquing in the clockwise direction, while you do the other way on the offending nut. Non-negligible possibility for injury!







          share|improve this answer










          New contributor




          RandomGuy is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.









          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited 9 hours ago





















          New contributor




          RandomGuy is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.









          answered 9 hours ago









          RandomGuy

          112




          112




          New contributor




          RandomGuy is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.





          New contributor





          RandomGuy is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.






          RandomGuy is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.






















              up vote
              0
              down vote













              I use the wheel's momentum as an impact wrench.



              I wirebrush it and hit it with Kroil, maybe a little heat and some more Kroil. Then score a line on stud and nut so you can see when it's starting to move.



              If you are careless, this technique can injure you. I use a long breaker bar with big (1/2-3/4) socket size with an impact socket. I jack and thoroughly jackstand the wheel barely off the ground. I fit the breaker bar/socket on one nut, so the handle aims straight away from the wheel hub*. I also get safety glasses and a face shield.



              I note the arc of travel the wheel/bar can travel without the handle hitting the ground. It should be no more than 270 degrees or so, or the handle is too short or the wheel too high. If the surface is soft or I care about it, I put a 2x12, wood crib, or old phonebook where the handle will hit on the right. Ready?



              I rotate wheel/bar to the right briskly. WAP! The breaker bar hits the ground and stops instantly. The wheel has mass, and does not want to stop. It wouldn't if the nut were loose. So a great deal of force exerts upon the nut, socket and bar.



              I am crazy, not stupid; so I do this exercise several times, starting at zero force to learn where to safely put my hands, body and face and keep the tool on. Increase force slowly until the witness mark starts to move. Expect tool breakage, though I've never broken a tool or failed to get a wheel off. I am careful and use top shelf tools. If you are careless, this technique can injure you.



              Then I use Kroil to run the nut off and back on, to hold the wheel so if the last stud breaks, I don't get a wheel in my lap.





              * Interesting science question, if I go the other way and have the handle cross over the hub, does that increase effective torque or decrease it? Probably a wash, but my way gives longer reach.






              share|improve this answer



























                up vote
                0
                down vote













                I use the wheel's momentum as an impact wrench.



                I wirebrush it and hit it with Kroil, maybe a little heat and some more Kroil. Then score a line on stud and nut so you can see when it's starting to move.



                If you are careless, this technique can injure you. I use a long breaker bar with big (1/2-3/4) socket size with an impact socket. I jack and thoroughly jackstand the wheel barely off the ground. I fit the breaker bar/socket on one nut, so the handle aims straight away from the wheel hub*. I also get safety glasses and a face shield.



                I note the arc of travel the wheel/bar can travel without the handle hitting the ground. It should be no more than 270 degrees or so, or the handle is too short or the wheel too high. If the surface is soft or I care about it, I put a 2x12, wood crib, or old phonebook where the handle will hit on the right. Ready?



                I rotate wheel/bar to the right briskly. WAP! The breaker bar hits the ground and stops instantly. The wheel has mass, and does not want to stop. It wouldn't if the nut were loose. So a great deal of force exerts upon the nut, socket and bar.



                I am crazy, not stupid; so I do this exercise several times, starting at zero force to learn where to safely put my hands, body and face and keep the tool on. Increase force slowly until the witness mark starts to move. Expect tool breakage, though I've never broken a tool or failed to get a wheel off. I am careful and use top shelf tools. If you are careless, this technique can injure you.



                Then I use Kroil to run the nut off and back on, to hold the wheel so if the last stud breaks, I don't get a wheel in my lap.





                * Interesting science question, if I go the other way and have the handle cross over the hub, does that increase effective torque or decrease it? Probably a wash, but my way gives longer reach.






                share|improve this answer

























                  up vote
                  0
                  down vote










                  up vote
                  0
                  down vote









                  I use the wheel's momentum as an impact wrench.



                  I wirebrush it and hit it with Kroil, maybe a little heat and some more Kroil. Then score a line on stud and nut so you can see when it's starting to move.



                  If you are careless, this technique can injure you. I use a long breaker bar with big (1/2-3/4) socket size with an impact socket. I jack and thoroughly jackstand the wheel barely off the ground. I fit the breaker bar/socket on one nut, so the handle aims straight away from the wheel hub*. I also get safety glasses and a face shield.



                  I note the arc of travel the wheel/bar can travel without the handle hitting the ground. It should be no more than 270 degrees or so, or the handle is too short or the wheel too high. If the surface is soft or I care about it, I put a 2x12, wood crib, or old phonebook where the handle will hit on the right. Ready?



                  I rotate wheel/bar to the right briskly. WAP! The breaker bar hits the ground and stops instantly. The wheel has mass, and does not want to stop. It wouldn't if the nut were loose. So a great deal of force exerts upon the nut, socket and bar.



                  I am crazy, not stupid; so I do this exercise several times, starting at zero force to learn where to safely put my hands, body and face and keep the tool on. Increase force slowly until the witness mark starts to move. Expect tool breakage, though I've never broken a tool or failed to get a wheel off. I am careful and use top shelf tools. If you are careless, this technique can injure you.



                  Then I use Kroil to run the nut off and back on, to hold the wheel so if the last stud breaks, I don't get a wheel in my lap.





                  * Interesting science question, if I go the other way and have the handle cross over the hub, does that increase effective torque or decrease it? Probably a wash, but my way gives longer reach.






                  share|improve this answer














                  I use the wheel's momentum as an impact wrench.



                  I wirebrush it and hit it with Kroil, maybe a little heat and some more Kroil. Then score a line on stud and nut so you can see when it's starting to move.



                  If you are careless, this technique can injure you. I use a long breaker bar with big (1/2-3/4) socket size with an impact socket. I jack and thoroughly jackstand the wheel barely off the ground. I fit the breaker bar/socket on one nut, so the handle aims straight away from the wheel hub*. I also get safety glasses and a face shield.



                  I note the arc of travel the wheel/bar can travel without the handle hitting the ground. It should be no more than 270 degrees or so, or the handle is too short or the wheel too high. If the surface is soft or I care about it, I put a 2x12, wood crib, or old phonebook where the handle will hit on the right. Ready?



                  I rotate wheel/bar to the right briskly. WAP! The breaker bar hits the ground and stops instantly. The wheel has mass, and does not want to stop. It wouldn't if the nut were loose. So a great deal of force exerts upon the nut, socket and bar.



                  I am crazy, not stupid; so I do this exercise several times, starting at zero force to learn where to safely put my hands, body and face and keep the tool on. Increase force slowly until the witness mark starts to move. Expect tool breakage, though I've never broken a tool or failed to get a wheel off. I am careful and use top shelf tools. If you are careless, this technique can injure you.



                  Then I use Kroil to run the nut off and back on, to hold the wheel so if the last stud breaks, I don't get a wheel in my lap.





                  * Interesting science question, if I go the other way and have the handle cross over the hub, does that increase effective torque or decrease it? Probably a wash, but my way gives longer reach.







                  share|improve this answer














                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer








                  edited 7 hours ago

























                  answered 8 hours ago









                  Harper

                  1,317212




                  1,317212






















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