Loctite and brakes
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I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.
There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.
Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.
Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?
brakes
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up vote
3
down vote
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I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.
There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.
Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.
Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?
brakes
New contributor
add a comment |
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
up vote
3
down vote
favorite
I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.
There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.
Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.
Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?
brakes
New contributor
I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.
There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.
Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.
Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?
brakes
brakes
New contributor
New contributor
New contributor
asked 12 hours ago
Tᴚoɯɐuo
1203
1203
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New contributor
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The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
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1 Answer
1
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1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
up vote
6
down vote
accepted
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
answered 12 hours ago
Nathan Knutson
22.6k11857
22.6k11857
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Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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